The skirt--part 2

The skirt is now sewn together and ready for a fitting.  Since last week, I have gathered the skirt and basted it to a silk ribbon waist band.  It is so exciting to see the flat, two dimensional material transform into a three dimensional design.

Here is an interesting statistic:  120 inches of fabric was pleated and gathered to 30 inches--a 4 to 1 ratio.  (I can't get away from my engineering DNA--I guess I am just a sewing nerd.)

Three rows of basting stitches were sewn to gather the skirt.  I also finished the raw edge at the top with a 3 stitch zigzag stitch.  This prevented the material from raveling while I manhandled it as I gathered it.

Most of the gathering was done using 3 rows of machine sewn stitches 1/4 inch apart.  The three rows of stitching leads to even gathers and helps eliminate puckers in the skirt.  One panel I basted by hand  hand because the threads broke while I was gathering the material.  I am using silk thread which makes gathering much easier.  I used buttonhole twist for the hand basting since it is much stronger than the regular silk thread.

Here is a close up of the gathers.

I added about 1 inch of ease to the waist (so Ginny can enjoy the parties without worrying about busting a seam).  The gathers were evenly distributed and then pressed only in the seam allowance so they will lay flat.  A silk ribbon band was basted by hand to the inside of the skirt to hold everything in place.  If adjustments are needed after Ginny tries this on, I can easily remove the ribbon and make the adjustments.

Here is the inside of the skirt showing the ribbon band.  This section includes a pleat.  The machine stitches you see are basting to hold the pleat in place.  These stitches will be removed after I attach the skirt to the bodice.

A quick note about the silk ribbon I used.  This ribbon was woven by my Grandfather Rockel.  He was ribbon weaver at ribbon mills in Allentown, Pa.  In the 1920's he was a union organizer and activist at these mills.  Because he was a union organizer, he was blackballed by the mills and unable to get work during the 1930's.  He was able to get work during World War II.  I think this ribbon was probably made in the 1950's.  Ginny can count this ribbon as the something old for her wedding dress.

The skirt has sewn up very nicely.  The silk organza underlining supports the gathers very nicely.  The skirt is currently residing on the dressmaker form in the basement.

A close up of the gathers.

The skirt is now ready to send to Ginny for a fitting.

I will be starting on bodice and the corset.  My goal is to have these ready for a fitting when she gets back from Myanmar in early February.